Cheap Hyundai i30 Sump

Both years fall within the second-generation i30 (Mk2, 2012–2017), so they share the same platform, but fitment of a sump depends primarily on the engine code rather than the model year — a 1.6 CRDi from 2014 will suit another 1.6 CRDi of the same code from 2012, but mixing engine families (for example a petrol unit into a diesel bay) will not work. Check your engine code on your V5 or via a HPI/VIN check and supply it to the breaker when requesting a quote. Never assume year alone is sufficient to confirm a match.

The Mk1 i30 ran from 2007 to 2012 and the Mk2 from 2012 to 2017 — these are distinct generations with different engine configurations and block designs, so a sump from across that generational boundary is very unlikely to be a straight swap. Even where an engine code looks similar between generations, ancillary and mounting details can differ, and you should confirm compatibility directly with the breaker against your exact registration before purchasing. Quoting your engine code (found on the V5 or via a VIN check) is the single most useful thing you can do.

Trim level — whether SE, Premium, SR, or N Line — makes no difference to sump fitment; the sump is determined by the engine code, not the badge on the car. The N Line shares the same engines as the equivalent standard trim cars, so the part will be identical as long as the engine code matches. Bear in mind the breaker's donor car may have different exterior colour or interior finish, but that is irrelevant for a mechanical component like a sump.

The Mk2 i30 received a facelift in 2015, refreshing styling and some interior details, but this did not change the fundamental engine architecture or sump design. A 2016 facelift car and a pre-facelift 2013 car with the same engine code will use the same sump. Confirm the engine code with the breaker to be certain, as any mid-production mounting or ancillary changes are best verified against your specific registration rather than assumed.

The engine code is the single most important detail — it identifies the exact block family and ensures the sump profile, oil pick-up position, and bolt pattern all match. You can find the engine code on your V5 logbook, stamped on the engine itself, or via a VIN check through a service such as the DVLA or a reputable HPI provider. Fuel type (petrol or diesel) and gearbox type (manual or automatic) are also worth mentioning as supporting details, but the engine code overrides everything else.

Gearbox type can influence sump design on some engines because the transmission bell-housing and related components may share the same casting or affect oil routing, so it is worth flagging whether your car is manual or automatic when speaking to the breaker. In practice the most important check remains the engine code, but supplying both the engine code and gearbox type gives the breaker the best chance of locating a confirmed match. Do not assume a sump is interchangeable between auto and manual variants without the breaker verifying it against your registration.