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Fitment on a used drive shaft varies by vehicle, so a bit of detail goes a long way. Our request form covers what breakers need to know, so every quote you get back is for the correct part:
The Ford Puma (the original generation) was produced from 1997 to 2002, so all cars fall within a single generation with no major facelift boundary to worry about — but driveshaft compatibility still depends primarily on the engine code rather than the year alone. A shaft from a 1997 car and a 2001 car may or may not interchange depending on whether they share the same engine code and gearbox type, so always confirm this with the breaker against your registration before buying.
Almost certainly not — the 1.4 and 1.6 are different engines with different engine codes, and mechanical drivetrain components including driveshafts follow the engine code above everything else. Supply your engine code (found on your V5C or via a VIN check) to the breaker so they can match the shaft precisely rather than going on engine size alone.
Trim level itself does not affect driveshaft fitment — what matters is the engine code, fuel type, and gearbox type. The Racing Puma used a different engine and running gear to the standard 1.6 Puma, so it would require a different shaft, but that is down to its distinct mechanical specification, not its trim badge. Tell the breaker your engine code and confirm you have the Racing Puma specification, and they will source accordingly.
Possibly, since the Puma ran as a single generation from 1997 to 2002 with no wholesale platform change, but small ancillary and mounting changes can occur mid-production even within a generation. The safest approach is to confirm with the breaker against your registration and the donor car's registration, as they can check whether the specific shaft from that earlier year matches your application.
Yes — the nearside (NS, passenger side) and offside (OS, driver side) driveshafts are not interchangeable and are different lengths on most applications. Always specify which side you need when contacting the breaker, and double-check by confirming your registration so they can verify the correct shaft for your exact setup.
The engine code is the single most useful piece of information for matching a driveshaft correctly — more so than the year or even the stated engine size — and buying without it carries a real risk of getting the wrong part. You can find the engine code on your V5C logbook or by running a VIN check, and you should ask the breaker to confirm the code on the donor vehicle too before you commit to a purchase.