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Used ignition switchs vary between vehicles - and whether you call it used, second hand or a replacement, matching the right one matters. These are the details breakers need to match the right part to your car - our request form asks them so you only hear from suppliers with the correct part:
It depends on the generation. The first-generation Z4 (E85/E86, 2003–2009) uses a traditional key-and-barrel ignition switch, so a physical ignition switch does exist on those cars. The second-generation Z4 (E89, 2009–2016) moved to a push-button start system on most variants, meaning a conventional ignition switch as a standalone part is not fitted; if you have an E89 and are having starting issues, you may be looking for the start button, EWS module, or ignition control unit instead.
Both years fall within the first-generation E85 roadster and E86 coupe range (2003–2009), so the ignition switch is very likely to be the same part. That said, confirm the part number with the breaker against your registration before buying, as minor running changes can occur within a generation. Never assume fitment is guaranteed without that check.
No, trim level does not affect the ignition switch on the E85/E86 Z4. Whether your car is an SE, Sport, or any other trim, the ignition switch is the same functional component. The breaker may mention cosmetic differences in the surround or key type, but the switch itself is trim-independent.
No — the E89 generation does not use a conventional key-operated ignition switch, so there is no like-for-like equivalent to swap across. The E85 switch is specific to that earlier generation and would not be applicable to an E89. If you own an E89 and have a starting or ignition fault, speak to the breaker about the relevant electronic components for your exact registration.
For the E85 Z4, the ignition switch itself is not engine-specific; the same switch design was used across the four-cylinder and six-cylinder variants in that generation. Engine size is not a fitment factor here, so a switch pulled from a 2.0i or 2.5i donor car should be the same part as one from a 3.0i. Always ask the breaker to cross-reference against your registration to be sure.
UK breakers (dismantlers) who specialise in BMWs are your best starting point, and a marketplace like Findapart lets you get quotes from multiple breakers at once. Give them your full registration so they can confirm the correct switch, as even within the E85 generation there can be variations. Buying from a breaker is a cost-effective route compared to a new OEM part, and a reputable one should be able to confirm the part number before it's sent.