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Start your part requestThe BMW i3 ran from 2013 to 2022 as a single generation, but received a notable facelift in 2017 that brought revised front and rear bumper styling, so a pre-facelift bumper (2013–2017) and a post-facelift bumper (2017–2022) are not directly interchangeable. Always tell the breaker your exact registration so they can confirm which bumper pressing your car has.
A 2015 car is pre-facelift and a 2018 car is post-facelift, and the rear bumper profile and detail lines changed across that 2017 boundary, so they are generally not the same part. Name that year gap clearly when you contact the breaker, give them your registration, and ask them to confirm the bumper matches your specific car before buying.
The i3 was sold only as a five-door hatchback throughout its production run, so there is no saloon or estate variant to worry about here. What you do need to check is the pre- or post-facelift cut-off, and whether the colour-coded lower section matches your car's finish, but body style itself will not complicate your search.
Trim level does not affect rear bumper fitment on the i3; the underlying pressing and mounting points are the same across SE, Suite, Lodge, and other grades. You may find cosmetic differences such as gloss versus matte finish on the lower section or different fog-lamp blanks depending on the spec the donor car was built to, so it is worth checking the exact finish with the breaker if a tidy colour match matters to you.
The i3s was a sportier variant with a wider body kit and a more pronounced rear bumper design, so the standard i3 and i3s rear bumpers are not the same. Confirm with the breaker against both your registration and the donor car's registration to make sure you are getting the correct bumper for your specific variant.
Used bumpers from breakers will almost always come in the colour of the donor car, and while a professional resprayer can match any shade, a bumper already in your colour saves cost and is worth asking about specifically. Let the breaker know your car's paint code – found on the sticker inside the door shut – and they can tell you whether their stock matches, though always confirm fitment year and variant first.
Fitment guidance is general and mistakes can happen - vehicle specifications vary and manufacturers make mid-production changes. Always confirm the exact part against your registration with the supplying breaker before buying.