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The Jetta has run through several generations, with the most commonly found in the UK being the Mk5 (2005–2010), Mk6 (2011–2018, with a facelift around 2014), and Mk7 (2018 onwards). The bonnet latch is generation-specific, so a Mk5 latch will not cross over to a Mk6 or Mk7. Always tell your breaker which generation your car is from, which your registration will confirm.
Both years fall within the Mk6 generation (2011–2018), but the 2016 car sits after the 2014 facelift, which brought changes to the front-end arrangement including the grille and bonnet area. Whether the latch itself is interchangeable across that facelift boundary is something you should confirm with the breaker against your registration, as the mounting or striker geometry may differ. A breaker will be able to cross-reference the part number to give you a definitive answer.
Trim level does not affect bonnet latch fitment — the latch is determined by the generation and facelift period, not whether the car is an S, SE, or SEL. All trims within the same generation share the same front-end structure, so you do not need to match trim level when sourcing a used latch. The latch mechanism itself will be the same across the range for a given model year.
No, engine type has no bearing on bonnet latch fitment for the Jetta — the latch, striker plate, and cable are all shared across petrol and diesel variants within the same generation. Whether your car has a 1.4 TSI, 1.6 TDI, or 2.0 TDI makes no difference to the part you need. Focus on the generation and model year when speaking to a breaker.
The Mk5 Jetta shares its platform with the Mk5 Golf, and some underbonnet components do cross over, but the bonnet and its associated latch and striker can differ due to the Jetta having a distinct bonnet pressing. You should not assume the parts are interchangeable without checking part numbers, and we would recommend confirming this directly with the breaker against your specific registration. A good breaker will be able to verify compatibility quickly.
Give them your full registration number, which will confirm the exact generation, facelift variant, and build date — this is the most reliable way to ensure you get the correct latch, striker plate, and cable assembly. It is also worth asking whether the latch, the cable, and the internal release handle are available together, as worn cables often accompany a failed latch. The breaker can then cross-reference the OEM part number to confirm suitability before you commit.