Cheap Ford Ka Oil Pump

Yes, the Ford Ka has an oil pump – every internal combustion engine needs one to circulate oil around the engine, and the Ka is no exception across all of its generations. The Ka ran across two main generations: the original Mk1 (1996–2008) and the Mk2 (2008–2016), and fitment of a used oil pump depends primarily on which engine code your car has rather than the year alone. Supply your engine code from your V5 or a VIN check to the breaker, as that is the single most reliable way to match the correct pump.

Both years fall within the Mk1 generation (1996–2008), so there is a reasonable chance of compatibility, but fitment turns on the engine code rather than the year – the Mk1 Ka used variants of the 1.3 Endura and later the 1.3 Duratec engine, and the oil pump design follows the engine family. Check your V5 for the engine code and give that to the breaker, as there were running changes within the Mk1 production run that can affect whether a pump will swap directly. Never assume year-to-year compatibility without confirming the engine codes match.

Almost certainly not, because the Mk2 Ka (2008–2016) used the 1.2 Duratec and 1.3 Duratec Ti-VCT engines, which are different engine families from the 1.3 Endura and earlier Duratec units found in the Mk1. The oil pump is specific to the engine, so crossing the Mk1-to-Mk2 generation boundary here is very unlikely to work. Confirm your engine code with the breaker to be sure.

No – trim level has no bearing on which oil pump you need, because the pump is determined entirely by the engine fitted to the car, not by whether it is a Studio, Style, or Zetec. All Mk2 Ka trims used the same engine options, so a pump from a basic Studio with the same engine code will be mechanically identical to one from a Zetec. Just confirm the engine codes match with the breaker and ignore the trim badge entirely.

No – the 1.3 Duratec Ti-VCT and the 1.2 Duratec are related but distinct engines, and their oil pumps are not assumed to be interchangeable. Always quote the full engine code (found on your V5 or via a VIN check) to the breaker rather than relying on the engine size alone, as this is the only reliable way to confirm a match. Guessing by capacity risks ordering the wrong part.

Beyond the engine code – which is the most important detail – it is worth giving the breaker your full registration number so they can cross-reference against the vehicle's exact specification. Confirm with the breaker against your registration whether there were any ancillary or mounting changes mid-production on your specific engine variant, as these details can vary and should not be assumed. Getting those confirmations from the breaker before purchase is the safest approach.